"For all its flaws," writes Dan Visel at With Hidden Noise, "Mexico City seems much more alive, more full of possibility, more creative, than New York does right now." I guess I must agree; despite having spent no time in New York, I now find myself scheduling a fall trip to the Distrito Federal. The project of stuffing my unconscious mind with information about Mexico City led me to discover, along with dozens upon dozens of intriguing galleries and eateries, the Condominio Insurgentes, the D.F.'s equivalent of Pyongyang's Ryugyong Hotel:
One difference between the Ryugong Hotel and the Condominio Insurgentes: people actually live in the Condominio Insurgentes. The scant information available holds that, once Mexico City's swankest building, it now hosts mostly single mothers, illegal Cuban or Colombian immigrants, squatters, and part-time brothel operators. One upper floor burnt up twenty years ago, never to be restored to livability. Totally abandoned after some disgraced politican jumped to his death out of it — or after someone killed a judge in there; I can't quite figure out which — the top floor holds nothing but dusty old furniture. Mexico City's 1985 earthquake seems to have put the final nail in the building's coffin, though it lives on, zombielike — with about as much maintenance as a zombie gets.
Given my interest in urban design, disastrous efforts thereof, and the dead buildings that result, I feel amost fated to want to know more about the Condominio Insurgentes. I only have enough Spanish to draw out the broad outlines from forum posts and Youtube comments and such, but from what I can tell, it came up as the first Latin American mixed-use complex of its scale. I've read that, aside from the occasional decades-shuttered bar with half-full beers still sitting on the tables, plenty of shops still operate on the bottom floor. (The letters spelling "CANADA" down the side once indicated the presence of a "Canadian shoe store." Your guess is as good as mine.) Stories conflict as to what goes on on the other nineteen; matters of whether and what sort of people occupy them come down to a haze of conflicting guesses.
Mexico City first came to fascinate me when I learned that Paul Verhoeven shot most of Total Recall's Earth scenes there, barely bothering to disguise the place. Much of the film's subway action actually happens at the Metro Insurgentes station, not far at all, as you'd expect, from the Condominio Insurgentes. They also burnt a lot of film in a military academy just outside the city which Verhoeven praises on the DVD commentary track for its New Brutalism. This gave me the impression that triumph-of-the-planning-committee architectural statements dominated Mexico City, but my visions of a northerly Brasília turned up false. It just doesn't seem like the kind of place where those projects can get much of a foothold; we have more examples of boldly socialistic architecture in the States.
Still, word on the street has it that the Condominia Insurgentes stays in disrepair due to what strikes me as a very Soviet-bloc reason: multiple owners and/or managers, none of whom have a specifically delineated set of responsibilities, exist in irresolvable deadlock. I suppose that, when something breaks, none of them wants to address the complaint and thus become the lightning rod for all the other complaints. And jeez, you could find a lot to complain about on the exterior alone. Sure, a fire tore through some of it, but buildings don't just fall apart like this, do they? Even though it comes after decades of neglect, this sheer dilapidation makes me think someone must've taken a very low-bidding contractor, if not Ryugyong low.
You'll find the Condominio Insurgentes in the Colonia Roma — also known as the neighborhood where Peter Greenaway film composer Michael Nyman lives — at La Avenida de los Insurgentes #300, between Queretaro and Zacatecas. I couldn't find it conventionally listed, so I had to tale a little walk on Google Maps' street view to find it. Luckily, the building pops out pretty distinctively on the local skyline:
I devour filmmaker interview compilations. Paul Cronin’s Herzog on Herzog and Vernon and Marguerite Gras’ Peter Greenaway: Interviews sit atop the heap, but Ludvig Hertzberg’s Jim Jarmusch: Interviews, which I’m now plowing through, might approach their level. The editor’s task of sifting through hundreds upon hundreds of print-media conversations, be they digital files or yellowed clippings or rolls of microfiche, sounds Herculean enough, but I have to believe these books do 51 percent of their standing or falling on some combination of the filmmaker-subject’s clarity, honesty, and willingness to both repeat and, when necessary, self-contradict.
I’ve always distrusted my unconscious mind, and I only now realize how that’s screwed me. Someone recently mentioned to me that he learned English and Japanese by exposing himself to those languages in their “real and raw” states with media made by and for native speakers. Therein lies the case for immersion: envelop yourself with the language you want to understand, and your brain cranks toward comprehension even when you’re not actively studying it. I guess
Hun Jang’s Rough Cut (영화는 영화다) exemplifies what I’ve come to think of as a specifically Korean subgenre: the gangster movie about a gangster movie. Gangsterism must have become an astonishingly common film subject over there — and, if my small sample tells me anything, it has — to spin off so meta and yet so viable a species. This one doesn’t quite rise to the level of Ha Yu’s
Qu-duk Hwang’s For Eternal Hearts (별빛 속으로) comes as a member of another specifically Korean subgenre, one I have an entirely tougher time pinning down, though I can tell you that they contain a lot of ghosts without quite turning into horror shows and flashbacks to important historical periods without quite turning into historical dramas. And you know what this particular example reminded me of? A Haruki Murakami novel. Specifically, it reminded me of Norwegian Wood, in that both that book's protagonist and this film’s protagonist flash back to their collegiate years in an era of student protest. Yet both protagonists have infinitely less interest in revolt than they do in the alienated, impulsive, and/or dead girls who repeatedly cross their paths. Murakami’s Toru Watanabe majors in drama, but the lead dude here studies German literature — and actually studies — so you get to hear a lot of Koreans speaking German. I don’t know about you, but my life doesn’t offer that every day.
Speaking of Joon-ho Bong, you know what I appreciate that he violates? The cinematic sacrosanctity of dogs. A rarely spoken law seems to dictate that, in most countries, to allow any dog to come to lasting harm will, at a stroke, alienate your entire audience. In Barking Dogs Never Bite (플란다스의 개), Bong has a lonely security guard who habitually kidnaps dogs and turns them into stew in his improvised kitchen, a shambling homeless wanderer who would do the same if he had the means, and a junior academic who dispatches a couple of pups — pitching one straight off a roof — out of sheer frustration at his inability to land tenure without bribery. He also throws in the would-be professor’s wife, who for a while comes off as a total man-eating drone (and who, in seemingly the ultimate act of betrayal, buys one of those fragile-looking accessory dogs), and a small-time vigilante who goes into action mode by cinching tight her bright yellow hoodie.
Third, and in the same episode, Smith brings up
My poor life choices have lead me to prize two things: infinite patience and full books available free on the internet. Henepola Gunaratana’s Mindfulness in Plain English,
Despite his high articulateness, Werner Herzog seems to consider himself inarticulate. I suspect this means something. I spent the weekend watching a retrospective of his documentaries put on by